Monday, January 24, 2011

STARTING SEEDS INDOORS



Even though there may be frost or even snow on the ground it's not too early to be thinking of your Spring garden.  Here are a few tips to get going! 


You don't need to have special nursery trays for seedlings...just pick something you use a lot of such as plastic milk cartons. Cut all the way around the jug just below the handle leaving it attached to the "bottom."  Place soil in bottom and cover with the handle "top."


Personally, I purchase a lot of rotisserie chicken from Wally Mart.  They come in a plastic container; the bottom is black...the top is clear with little vents...perfect for a mini "greenhouse."  



Earlier fuits and flowers, plus endless variety

Starting seeds indoors will give you earlier vegetables and flowers, and your cultivar choices will be endless. The process of germination may seem complex, but the act of seed planting is reassuringly simple. Just take it step-by-step, and you’ll soon be presiding over a healthy crop of seedlings.
starting seedsSelect your work area—a surface at a comfortable height and close to a water supply where you’ll have room to spread things out. Assemble your equipment: seed-starting containers, starting medium or soil mix, watering can, labels, marking pen, and seed packets.
Choosing Containers
You can start seeds in almost any kind of container that will hold 1 to 2 inches of starting medium and won’t become easily waterlogged. Once seedlings form more roots and develop their true leaves, though, they grow best in containers that provide more space for root growth and have holes for drainage.
You can start seedlings in open flats, in individual sections of a market pack, or in pots. Individual containers are preferable, because the less you disturb tender roots, the better. Some containers, such as peat pots, paper pots, and soil blocks, go right into the garden with the plant during transplanting. Other pots must be slipped off the root ball before planting.
Square or rectangular containers make better use of space and provide more root area than round ones do. However, individual containers dry out faster than open flats. Many gardeners start seeds in open flats and transplant seedlings to individual containers after the first true leaves unfold. Choose flats and containers to match the number and types of plants you wish to grow and the space you have available.
Excellent seed-starting systems are available from garden centers and mail-order suppliers. You can also build your own wooden flats. If you raise large numbers of seedlings, it’s useful to have interchangeable, standard-sized flats and inserts.
You can reuse your seedling containers for many years. To prevent problems with dampening off, you may want to sanitize flats at the end of the season by dipping them in a 10 percent solution of household bleach (1 cup of bleach plus 9 cups of water).
Homemade containers: You can recycle milk cartons and many types of plastic containers as seed-starting pots. Just be sure to poke a drainage hole in the bottom of each. Cut lengths of clothes hanger as a frame for your flats so you can wrap them in plastic to encourage germination. You can bend the wire to fit into a plastic flat filled with pots or six-packs, or staple the wire to the sides of a wooden flat as shown at right. Use clear plastic wrap or plastic bags (like the ones from the dry cleaner) to enclose the flat.
Two make-at-home seed-starting containers are newspaper pots and soil blocks. To make pots from newspaper, begin by cutting bands of newspaper about twice as wide as the desired height of a pot (about 4 inches wide for a 2-inch-high pot). Wrap a band around the lower half of a jar a few times, and secure it with masking tape. Then form the bottom of the pot by creasing and folding the paper in around the bottom of the jar. You can also put a piece of tape across the pot bottom to hold it more securely in place. Slip the newspaper pot off the jar. Set your pots in high-sided trays with their sides touching. When you fill them with potting mix, they will support one another. There are also commercial molds for making newspaper pots.

Monday Melange: Painted Spurge

Here in Northeast Texas we have these growing everywhere...now I know what they are!





Monday Melange: Painted SpurgePrintE-mail
Written by Heleigh Bostwick    Monday, 24 January 2011
Painted Spurge

Painted spurge (Euphorbia cyathophora, is a poinsettia that is indigenous to the US, its range extending across a large portion of the US including Hawaii, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin Islands. Painted spurge is not found in New England, northern Mid-Atlantic States, the Pacific Northwest, or Nevada, Montana and the Dakotas. Painted spurge is a member of the Spurge family (Euphorbiaceae) family.Euphorbia is one of the largest genera of flowering plants in the world.

Painted spurge is also known by a number of other common names including wild poinsettia, fire-on-the-mountain, Mexican fire plant, and summer poinsettia. It is a considered an annual plant and commonly planted in California where it becomes naturalized through reseeding. Its main attraction is it’s showy reddish-orange bracts and similar appearance to the cultivated poinsettia. Like there domestic counterparts, the flowers of wild poinsettia are inconspicuous.

A somewhat weedy plant in certain parts of the country (particularly the south), in the wild painted spurge grows in alluvial soils, gravel bars adjacent to stream beds, and disturbed sites such as railroad beds. It will also thrive in “regular” garden soil and grows to a height of about 24 inches. It prefers full sun.

Photo source: www.missouriplants.com